4.10.13
The twenty
percent chance of rain stayed on the other side of the Himalayas and surprisingly
strong winds cleared the clouds by late afternoon, how about that Clementine,
your mountains, nothing like them French Alps, oui oui?
I cleaned
the dining room windows today of nature’s infinite insect population. The next cleaning project, the kitchen floor.
Then it was the beds and the bottoms of the feet are black again and an hour
nap after a headache prompted retreat.
So, maybe a shower tomorrow.
Four
years ago this week, on top of a mountain high above the city lights the
beginning of rain and the first lightening blasted away just as I turned on the
shower. I laughed and thought what a
ridiculous coincidence. The Chicago dude
and I and our guide Subash, now in Afghanistan, had just returned from a day of
hiking and meeting with a shaman to the two-room Super View Lodge when it
occurred.
A
coincidence with nature probably only means you’re in sync with it, farmers are
probably more in sync with nature than anyone else. There is so much time to think through the
silence and feel earth resonate, in the fields you think of one thing while at
the same time that inner clock, the subconscious, the guiding spirit, Jesus,
St. Francis Xaiver, who’s on call, leads you home.
Gonna sing my Lord, for all that I’m worth.
4.11.13
After a hot,
blinding dusty walk to Baba’s for sugar, salt, beaten rice, moy-e, flour and an
always delicious glass of buffalo milk tea I returned and took the hot bucket
shower and once again feel clean. It
makes me know I told you so showering every day really isn’t as refreshing as
taking it once a fortnight.
A week of no
rain, another chance, unlikely it looks, a better chance in a few days, but
this is the build-up to the monsoons, the hot, dry anticipation though it kills
business when it comes. Nature seems to
survive better than humans who depend on nature.
I can’t help
but laugh when I think even for a tenth of a second that the Nepali New Year
2070, this Sunday, the 14th, and arriving in Sarangkot four years
earlier on the same day have anything in common with a scheduled interview with
a university that morning. Oh, and a big
group comes in this day, taking all the rooms.
And I will predict here to combat the absurdity of connecting anything
and everything that by the end of this day, nothing will have happened
supernaturally.
So why even
write about it if nothing is going to happen?
It’s just this month ya know, it’s keeping me from moving on. The end of this journey is coming, and I’ll
be terribly disappointed and greatly relieved.
4.12.13
How can you
explain when an entire community decides to sleep in? Forty minutes since sunrise not a soul stirs,
not a single tourist has ventured up to the hazy top. It’s the heat, the dust, all forecasts for
precipitation have dried up. The driest
part of the dry season is keeping us in bed a little longer.
Two tourists
in room one drank ten bottles of coke last night. They’re lucky it’s so calm and they have the
whole place to themselves. On Sunday a
big group comes I hear. A little bit of
rain will be appreciated.
9:36pm—The
days can be so fast I hardly remember the significant and the insignificant but
to sum: a grocery trip to Pokhara with Laxman, carrying foodstuff in a backpack
and resting on my left leg a box filled with loaves of bread is not a big deal
unless you’re sitting on the back of a motorcycle and with all your strength
you’re trying not to fall right off the back because you’re going up hill. A headache ensued and before I knew it it was
time to close the shop, put away the chairs and cushions, lock the doors and
decorate a table for Baba’s sixty-eighth birthday which was a mostly
entertaining affair of tradition, breaking free of tradition and I’ll leave it
at that.
Whaddya
think, 2070, 4 years ago, an interview.
No relation at all between them, but you so dear want there to be, you
@&#$%#@#&@%
4.13.13
A slow red
sun rises at six, officially five forty four or so elsewhere. An insect bite at the base of my left thumb
itches and spreads under the skin. Room
eight has big spiders who stay away but there are a lot of other things who
don’t care.
The internet
hasn’t worked so we’re in the dining room, newly arranged for twenty tomorrow
or the day after. Slow rising party goers are, for the moment, not restaurant
owners, rather homeowners, assessing only the step in front of them, no orders,
no cleaning, wash your face, trim the bushes, the children sleep, and why not
it’s not even seven.
Walking back
from the paternal homestead the heat saps strength and it’s in bed for a two hour
nap. Today Ram’s new son was given a
name by the guru, Hindu priest, eleven days after birth, and the family is happy,
a healthy boy whose name I cannot pronounce let alone spell.
Next to the
banyon tree rest stop a group of men slaughter a male buffalo. I am glad to view the work from this
distance.
There’s no
way to avoid the contemplative moment, four years ago we arrived in Pokhara,
went to an outdoor new year’s celebration and that’s all I remember. When I think I’ve only lived abroad for 13
years but not consecutively, wow what an unlucky number, it doesn’t seem like
much. And in those years I learned to
keep anticipation at a lower than average barometer, a pessimist you might say,
but overseas learning to expect nothing is a far safer way to live among
different peoples.
So what
happened four years ago, well nothing but anticipation drove me from continent to
continent, shedding everything to keep moving and in the end, splat, nothing,
brown mud, transparency a sick illusion.
I anticipate tomorrow to be like any other day. To expect anything will lead to
disappointment. I can be content in the
middle, a safe place to be.
Didi walks
by with a basket of organic fertilizer for the plot right below. I face a very very strong possibility I will
be without shelter when I leave here. Does
listening to Neil Young make you feel bummed out? A man needs a maid? I never let maids clean my flats.
Families are
so connected here, relations rooted long and deep, even sentences demonstrate,
though not briefly, the extent in which everyone in the chain is recognized,
and most likely remembered. My wife’s
mother’s sister’s daughter’s boyfriend’s father’s brother was taken into
custody yesterday.
The alien
and the little girl met in the early
morning, amongst the mangroves and sunlight illuminated the dense green and all
is well for thirty families of lower castes who will eat meat tonight. A man in a yellow shirt takes half swings
with the axe at the ribs and it sounds like he’s cutting wood. The parts are
partitioned on a clean sheet of corrugated tin.
9:45pm—Dinner
finished, dining room locked, teeth brushed, the pulsating booms of dj music
from Lakeside ruins an otherwise perfect night.
Happy 2070. We’re in the future
and how does it look for you, I don’t know.
Sleep looks good right now. See
you next year from the mystical, good night.
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