4.7.13
A heavy haze
welcomes the six o five sun, mosquito fly bys deny me sleep throughout the
night, the second day of no rain, temps in Pokhara pushing ninety, thankfully
it’s cool above.
Yesterday’s
breakfast may have been the busiest of the year. After travelers in the rooms had eaten a
group of twenty arrived for omelets, toast and milk tea. I was invited to sit down at one table where
men from Sierre Leone, Nigeria, Kenya, East Timor, India and Nepal spoke of
treating leprosy under the ficus and banana trees. Peter from Nairobi: “Can we say you are John
the Baptist?” You can call me anything
but a baptist, my friend. And then they
were gone. I have a hard time
visualizing my departure here. With
seven weeks left there is still no direction. I know I can go rogue, hide in Himalayan
layers, become the jungle man and eat tree bark. I don’t think so. Where, then, is your sense of urgency? The aura of inevitability says where I’ll go
if I don’t know by the end of this month.
How will I know? I’ll have to
book a ticket. Ya. A sense of urgency should do something to me. Right, off this bed and out into the hot
afternoon sun…in a minute.
4.8.13
What’s this
I hear about you sleeping in Ram’s garden last night?
A very busy
afternoon of lunches and all rooms are full.
A nice bonus considering the haze is as heavy as it was four years ago when
Keith and I came here and there are no mountains to speak of like then, a
disappointment for the elderly woman from Salzburg who walked six hours from
Naudana with her husband and guide. “All
thees vay unt zare es nuttin to see.” Ke
garne, Gertrude, have a seat we’ll bring you tea.
The heavy
haze dampens the noise, birds, a volleyball game far below, a door opens above and
the two elderly ladies from New Zealand consider the day. Upon arrival they checked into room five and
ordered a large pot of masala tea. Could
you explain to me what Maori food is all about?
In room four yet another elderly woman checks in and no, they are not
together, a bit odd you think? In room six a bald dude who used a lot of water
in the shower, and in room one the Austrian’s guide and his buddy. I hope you understand room seven is free to
guides, not room one.
I cleaned up
the garden and walked up the other steps to the top, used one of the three
toilets thank god for that and then walked to the helicopter pad with thirty
minutes before sunrise and I could have gone to sleep on grass again, the air
was still, Nyima and his family’s camp and the entire valley living life
quietly, perhaps for many it’s a most contemplative quietness. Is that even possible to do in the states
now?
I know my
business with Nyima is finished. I’ll
need a puja when I’m 81? And you’ll be
98? Leaving him in the past will also
require leaving the unanswered questions about the relationship between his medium
and my friend who has failed miserably in my opinion, of…of…he knows.
My spirit
had left, Job filled in, and now who is with you? Just your spirit alone? I guess.
In three weeks I have to seriously consider booking a ticket to a place
I don’t know yet, a place without a job or a home. That’s not good. Can my spirit alone save me from skid row, oh
choose your faith, I forgot. Jesus,
dude, I’ve learned a lot about suffering from Buddha you know that, your
suffering, immeasurable, the worst way to die no doubt, lasted how many
days? How many billions suffer a life
time? Buddha has answers for that. So, may the spirit of Jesus be with me and
may becoming enlightened to another world help me choose wisely because right
now, nope, sorry, I can’t separate ya’ll.
Enlightened
to another world is not a big deal since you can’t trust spirits. Mischievous bastards it’s not right for me to
be in your world, is that it? Your ability to predict future events is no
better than mine.
In the past
four years there were two years of work, four countries lived in, discarding
everything as I moved restlessly on, coming home to the plate and he slides and
I am out. It’s time to start again for
the umpteenth.
8:18pm—The elderly
French lady, the Kiwi’s, the Austrians, the German speaking Nepalis, I gave ‘em
all the same line; being a homeless man with a decent degree has worked for the
most part, with one notable and obvious self inflicted exception, and while I
try not to think of bottoming out again I do consider the worse case scenarios more
so now, I’m not afraid only dismayed I’ll need to ask for help.
Before dusk
Suraksha and Deetsi and I went down to the field where the crazy dog lives
during the day and the girls cut buffalo grass.
During the afternoon they were manning the tap and filling containers. In the kitchen meanwhile, the oldest brother
whose name I will not use here because he can find it too easily with a search
key, is in the kitchen making apple fritters for the kiwis, getting creative,
you know talent when you see it, say a little cinnamon would be nice.
4.9.13
The quiet
heavy haze at five in the morning is more pleasant than one might expect. With no mountains, all a visitor is left with
is an encompassing solitude.
My first tip
comes from the friend of the guide who led the Austrians. Why?
Not because he was in a Japanese prison for years, accused of murdering
a woman and then was released when DNA proved him innocent. Yes, he is thankful
and quite hungry, eating more than the tourists.
A guide for
the bald dude in room six asks if the government will take care of me if I return
to America in two months. Ha. And I won’t ask. I tell him most receive something when they
turn sixty five and I’m not even close, wanker in the waiting.
Look at this
chicken, Suman. She’s been morose ever
since we ate her boyfriend and she’s still digging holes in the garden to lay
Carl’s offspring. What to do. This is a question to ask: if your neighbor’s chicken lays eggs in your
field are the eggs yours?
All is quiet
on the dining room front so it’s back to the room. A quick clean-up of the beds and there’s Margaret
Thatcher in room five. Let’s sit for a
second. This is still a nice room. As is six, with its few ornamentals on the
walls. The bald dude moved the aging
marigold malla on the same hook as the Jordanian mosaic so he could,
presumably, examine the brass plated swastika high on the pillar across from
the toilet.
Prem Maya’s
second oldest and her mother and the second youngest were coming over with
groceries from the bamboo gate as I was coming down to the room when we met, at
the juncture where the latter two climbed over the wall onto the path that
leads direct to their home. The second
oldest lagged behind and without glasses I thought it was the non-coincidental
woman for a few uncomfortable seconds, yikes they look alike, get the key open
get inside, Namaste, a sweet kid.
It’s been a
few weeks since I attempted to watch the March 6 airing of the Daily Show with
the astrophysics dude on and for more than a month it is just unmercifully slow
and not having watched two minutes of the bleeping show. What the blank is this.
I might be
down to perhaps even under 170lbs for the first time since I trained for the
Dubai marathon ten years ago. Am I in
the same shape? Hardly, and I never
smoked cigarettes then. It’s the diet, a
lunch of rice, dal and a small of amount of curry veg, would a piece of onion
be too much to ask, oh you never ask. I’d
like the number one, whopper meal with no cheese, diet coke. There, I asked.
9:25pm—The
second high season is keeping the lodge full for another night, and it was a
good night too, with meals and drinks and everyone worked hard, including our
princess Suraksha, who managed the water at the tap, and Suman, who is a
natural in the kitchen. How in the world
could this place become the next Lakeside, I don’t think, deep down, the
community really wants this kind of change.
They need more water and better roads but is development really the only
answer? Power was out most of the
afternoon and evening and at the junction small shops use candles. The widened road is dark. I don’t think I’d like to come back in four
years and find a Lakeside in Sarangkot.
Sarangkot is special because it isn’t Lakeside, thank Om for that, but
there must be a better way. I just don’t
know.
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