4.17.13
Let’s take a reality check while we can here on living
in SE Asia. It’ll always be hot and when
it’s wet, it’ll destroy a lot of your clothes if your accommodations are not dry and that
can’t be understated. Tropical means
mold.
It will present a challenge, hey, wow, with a nice
camera (?), a new city discovered, that would be cool, the weather, shit, it’s
the weather. I have to adapt to power
outages, no, not really, ok, maybe in a big city in an apartment with not even
a fan and walls perspire and rashes persist.
Give me a decent room and I’ll deal with everything
else. Really. Memories of Huizhou are not pleasant when one asks about housing, food, everything to be too honest.
I think I’d need _________to live there
before I saw a paystub and that includes getting there. Lord, it’s just too much to ask.
And really, are you gonna ditch the land of the
droopy gonad and the country of your last employer in exchange for this,
whatever this is, we’ll talk in a few days.
Oh well Jacky boy there goes plans to begin your
retirement fund. What to bloody do. Have another peanut cookie and settle
down.
6:20pm—I walked to the grandparents for milk and sat on
their porch watching Fantasia like clouds swirl dark and darker, the winds
howled, thunder rattled and…no rain. Here’s
a new kind of pattern after three days when the ominous has no bite but what
spectacular clouds they are outside room eight now, flaming red and orange
skies above Annapurna and Lamjung with flashes and gusts keeping it going.
I hate to whinge but if my writing were better than taking photos with a beat
up camera I wouldn’t desire a nice camera, but please allow just a simple
indulgence what life as a photographer would be like. Ok, that’s enough.
9:19pm—A light rain falls, hardly enough to keep the
dust down. Before I went for milk a
threesome checked into room three and came to the dining room for lunch. “I no pay this ten percent tax because we no
pay tax in last place we stay.”
Maya, not wishing for conflict, said ok, perhaps a little too fast
because a relationship of distrust had just been established. No where in Pokhara or Kathmandu can you get
away with not paying your tax and yet for some reason the Spaniard with a lisp
and the Romanian dude thought it was in their rights to make this call.
And while I was gone Maya gave the Romanian a second
Gorkha beer and conveniently couldn’t remember when he was told he was going to
pay for two and then says maybe I will go to another hotel. Their guide, a squirrelly man with a baseball
hat pulled low over his shady eyes, accused Laxman of cheating them and ya
know, it begs the question how the Buddha or Jesus should handle Romanians and
Spaniards with lisps who take the law into their own hands. Who takes the loss? Oftentimes it’s the Nepalese who depend on
tourism and don’t wish to upset anyone.
A guide falsely accuses, a Romanian refuses to pay the tax. A fine pair of hoodlums here, sleep with one
eye open friends because the police are right around the corner.
4.18.13
I don’t think the Dalai Lama would find that last
paragraph too compassionate. In Northern
Ireland today, talking the culture of compassion, and the feeling I get is an
unfounded anticipation. Are there
spirits who are just dying (no pun intended) to go somewhere in the end but are
just as frustrated and losing hope fast that nothing is going to happen in this
lifetime? I dare the gods.
Don’t interpret everything, don’t interpret
anything. Accept whatever symbolism and
stop your sitting.
A pleasantly chilly yellow filled sunrise with the
mountains returning, snow covered, behind a thin grey veil.
2:04pm—The skies rumble and threaten but nothing is
happening. The forecast for the next
seven days is the same. They look like
rain clouds, they smell like rain clouds but for reasons I know not, they move
ahead, holding on to that precious cargo.
Last night’s brilliant light and cloud show above the mountains left
them snow covered so why not down here.
A busy lunch and rooms two and three are occupied. Room one is temporarily unattractive due to a
stone that shot out a panel of glass facing east. Within minutes of telling Laxman, two
policemen dressed in blue army fatigues were on the scene and a young man
quickly confessed. Faced with going to
prison and paying a fine or replacing the glass, the boy chose the latter and
he managed to get another pane but he didn’t put it in, I suppose he doesn’t
know how but now the glass remains unrepaired.
Would you sleep in a room with a broken window. Yes, you’d have to lower
the price pretty good I reckon. Postscript—window was replaced, all is good
again.
Cold mountains appear.
The two guides who brought the two Frenchmen in their early sixties sit
quietly across the white-bearded gentlemen and watch the grey steely skies
darken. Not even three and it feels like
dusk, more people come, I help Maya prep the pizzas, veggie and chicken chow
mein, chicken and veggie momos, chicken soup, vegetable soup and ohoy! Laxman
arrives.
When all is dark, the wind settles, silence brings
children, chickens and a dining room full of people to focus. I sat outside on the front porch with a cup
of tea and a cigarette, next to the shop when the woman I haven’t spoken to in four
years comes up, too late to move, she can’t not notice I see her and she sees
me and her indifferent eyes speak the pejorative adjective that continues
upwards. I told Laxman she can wear this
full length purple dress in America and people’d think she was Mennonite.
Outside Beem walks by with a full basket of greens for
the buffalo. Rain falls lightly and
hooray, steadily oh wait, it’s petering out, a little wind, the guides in room
seven chat on their mobiles, the younger one wears the real red crocs too big
for Suman now and Maya just isn’t gonna wear them. I tried them on once and my feet started to
sweat. What is the attraction to wearing
plastic or rubber on your feet unless you’re diving I don’t know.
What is it about FB and skype that leaves me
skittish? Once it starts I guess I’m ok
but not initiating anything concerns me a little. Oh, I see the red croc dude is an uninhibited
soul and now sits on the bamboo chair behind me clipping his nails. He speaks not a word of English. Ok, I’ll go ahead and be free, now he wants
to play with my mobile and let’s see if we can see the Dalai Lama in Derry.
The rain stops ten minutes later and painter’s palette
fills the sky, orange hews, shades of blue white and grey, a masterpiece
changes eastward.
The trio in three are purebread college students from
America and I’ll not engage with any of them unless it’s business though one of
the two girls is awfully cute, too cute to even think about and that is a good
thing, right Kevin? You can look at another
gorgeous woman and think nothing of it because there’s no desire and when there
is no desire there is…ta da…no temptation.
Since that trunking system was officially turned on
there has been a police presence in the village. As long as they’re not wearing side arms
welcome boys.
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