January, 2009 Goa
A fresh water lake is next
to the ocean.
All things happen for a
reason and one way to test this hypothesis is simply look back.
Why did I take myself off
prozac? Because I knew what the problem was and prozac wasn’t going to fix it.
Had I stayed on for the benefit of others I could have ended up in worse shape
than a divorce.
desire and suffering
Two people marry and they
ought to have never married. They agreed it was a mismatch yet remained
together because of committed vows to their faith and family.
The Bible is wrong or the
interpretations are wrong because it is unfathomable to accept God is going to
hold two people, who should not have married if it wasn’t meant to be,
accountable. How many people do I know who remain in a marriage forever
miserable but faithfully loyal? That is just not right. We didn’t believe in
such things as inerrancy anymore and found canonical loopholes to justify the
end so we could move on with our lives.
Find a girlfriend, take
yourself out of the game
Stop getting involved in
other people’s lives.
Stop connecting the dots
and stay focused
Who’s a puritan? The
children of those who were alive before Elvis, Hitler, and credit cards? Who’s
the back seat psychologist? I’m not to blame for a miserable marriage completely
though I did ask, pushed down to my knee by forces of fear and insecurity.
The Shiva Restaurant next
to the Sweetwater Lake is busy, a plate of Kadai chicken, garlic butter naan
which wasn’t very good and a masala chai that was good but in fatigue I knocked
half of it over and headed back to the hotel. ‘I’m sorry, there is none.’ I
pulled out my camera to catch a kingfisher diving for fish below its perch on a
wire, Russians and Israelis scattered thinking I was going to catch them in the
act of sunbathing.
EVERYTHING HAPPENS FOR A
REASON
I asked the fella at the
Anjuna Villa for some Goan chill. He returned with a Kings pilsner and said
something incoherently. I was the only one dining and the rave music irritated.
The tall man of 20 said he needed to get a key to unlock the CD machine. ‘everything’s
going to be alright’
fills the air and it’s a nice light beauty, a change of pace
and a calm of influence. A geeky euro and his female companion look back at me
because she came in first, hesitated, and discussed eating instead of what they
were going to do originally. Bob Marley is still distrusted music in Goa, its
relationship with marijuana undeniably linked, but it beats the rave many
listen to here when they need some serious escape and believe their end will
come sooner than ours.
It seems so silly to censor
anything until it is understood that we remember all perceptible images. Peel
away those inhibitory circuits and see for yourself.
FUNDAMENTALISM
EXTREMISM
BE CRAZY AND SUBDUE
In the restaurant a sign
hangs for everyone to see:
“DON’T SMOKE CANNABIS HERE”
My opinion of reggae has
changed from what I hear is simply a repetition of the same chords to something
quieter and more therapeutic. Can you relax and enjoy Bob Marley and not smoke
cannabis? Surely yes.
“let’s get together and
we’ll be alright” A
group of Semitic fellas come in. A few more couples come in. Relaxing music
attracts young and old people to this restaurant.
‘it’s the words that made
Dylan great’
no, it’s the music, the
melody, connect the dots together they are inseparable.
john: you like
rave music?
francis: no, I
don’t listen to it.
john: well
there was no one here and you were playing it. Do you
know who likes
that music?
francis: yes,
europeans.
john: and the
israelis?
francis: yes,
they love this music. they are a problem but they
have money so
we welcome them.
The Israelis who came in
weren’t aware that I requested a change in the music. Three gals, one in the
pool I found refuge in earlier in the day and I get emotional and I know uh oh,
I am coming above the radar and you know what?
inspire
THERE’S NO REASON TO CRASH
INTO OTHER PEOPLE’S LIVES UNLESS YOU HAVE TO…
(2)
I am still on earth.
OM MANI PADME HOM. The
Tibetan part of that chant is after the Om. Indian Hindus have no idea what the
latter part means. I bought two CD’s for 300Rs and I gave my $300 pair of Ray
bans with a scratch on the left lens to the man who sold me the music. Walking
around in the big Wednesday Anjuna flea market I couldn’t find anyone who wanted
to trade the glasses with relative value for a cheap $5 pair and remembered the
theory of relativity at work.
I asked one of the managers
if the cannabis sign was for sale and I told him I’d buy it for a $100 and put
the crisp three year old bill with a concerned Benjamin Franklin upright on the
table, held by the salt and pepper shaker. An older couple from Italy looked
back to see what I had just offered. “I am testing a hypothesis”, which was to
demonstrate that in all things value is relative.
conflict-deficit
It is sad to sleep another
night alone, but what gives, I didn’t meet anyone today.
Mohandas Gandhi said the
differences between the faiths were semantic.
All faiths are the same at the top.
The tall fella who had the
Marley music had an MP3 and he is not here today so I gave my Buddha bar cd and
Indian percussion cd for them to play. “You saw Zakir Hussein perform in Dubai?
May we touch your garments?”
Mohan and Simon who also
went by Mohan and I stood atop a grassy knoll at the elbow of steady shopping
traffic in the market, Mohan with green eyes and a foot shorter than I stood to
my right, Simon aka Mohan stood to my left wearing Army blue fatigues and
carried a large rifle. “I feel very safe standing next to you.” and Simon
smiled. “Fellas, I’m gonna stand here for five…six minutes and if you can help
me find a nice girl to be my girlfriend, I’ll buy the first two rounds
tonight.”
The woman reading the Anita
Desai book pulled out this big camera and showed her friends sitting across
from her. “I was so embarrassed. There I stood in my pink two piece bikini,
mascara running down my left eye, what a mess, and there on the beach with the
Indian people in speedos they ask to take my photos.”
Simon, can you identify the
Israeli babes from the Italian babes? The Israeli babes wear surplus army
clothes and anything black. The Italians always wear half black half African
red, green or yellow and if you look real close they got marinara sauce stains
on their banana republic pantaloons.
(3)
India isn’t cheap if you’re
generous and you can’t find someone to cut your hair for 40Rs. Waving 500Rs I
bribed a young woman in a hair salon for women only to give me a trim and still
she didn’t do a good job. When she finished she and another gal held this large
and heavy mirror to show me what the back of my head looked like but they
couldn’t remain still and I never saw what I usually never see to begin with.
All joking
testing the Gods
paying cash
The levels of intelligence
hardcore naturalist
no cigarettes, shots of
whiskey, straight, no additives.
last night outside the
hotel we spoke about India’s 9/11.
“I want to kill them. India
is my country. Kill the Pakistanis”
That’s great, an eye for an
eye, a tooth for a tooth and the subcontinent is blind and hungry. I don’t
think anyone will notice the difference my friend.
Was partition a big
mistake? Can we blame the English for all of today’s problems?
The Balfour Doctrine, the Partition.
Going Indian nutty when a
Penelope Cruz advertisement came on the tv in the shop next to Maya’s travel
agency where I bought a bus ticket to Hampi and the two fellas hooted and
hollered to see this white dude who believes unpaid celibacy has unfairly
burdened him for far too long and can’t rest in one place begins the trek across
and up the country hoping he can meet someone he can call a girlfriend though
in truth he can’t stay in place long enough to meet anyone.
Mara, the pretty 18 year
old at the reception happily accepted a catholic wrist band.
mara: do you
know them all?
john: oh, only
a few and only those I can see without glasses.
I see jesus
there, and mary, and the holy trio. your name is mara?
I have a sister
named Mary, maybe I’ll send her this one.
No expectations. Expect
anything that isn’t a guaranteed and you set yourself up for a disappointment.
Desire a pretty girl and dammit, we’re suffering because it’ll never happen and
it’s freaking me out.
Desire. Look for what you
want and you’ll never find it unless you act like a lunatic and then you’ll
always get what you want. But guess what, behave like a freaking spiritual
lunatic and you still have no luck finding a girlfriend. The Indian woman is
extraordinarily beautiful and it hurts to see them because I know desire trumps
me every time.
kill the desire, find
peace.
How can I kill desire, I am
not a priest. I cannot and do not want to turn off my libido, alright? Someone
is making me wait, I swear it’s a cosmological conspiracy. Ok, I’ll stay in
this country, die in this place, don’t go back, please OM MANI PADME HOM JESUS.
The Bombay kid
john: “Ok, I got a question
for you. In front of me are 400 virgins, some of them so ridiculously gorgeous.
All of them are in black, head to toe and you only see their eyes, noses, and
mouths. Some of them don’t have mouths and noses and all you see are eyes. Eyes
that slay.
who am I?
Five seconds passes. The
young kid on vacation sits and ponders but is clueless. “Ok, here’s a clue, I
live in Dubai.”
the kid: “Dubai? I got
relatives there somewhere but I don’t know where.”
john: Not very close
relatives I reckon, ok give up?
the kid: I don’t know.
It’s hard for me to believe
at this point that an attractive young man who dropped out of flight school
after two years and is bumming around can’t come up with anything.
the kid: you’re a priest?
john: HA Mother of St. Antony.
The cheesecloth shirt I
bought I thought was worth 700Rs and didn’t bargain at all for was only worth
150Rs. “These stains aren’t going to come out” said one of the hotel staff when
I asked him what he thought its value was. well, shite, if I was thinking like
a German instead of an Irishman I would have taken the shirt outside of the
tent I found it in and looked harder at it. My loss. However, Krishna, looking
very religious in his own white vespers, long braided hair and a huge red
splotch and pieces of rice on his forehead, and his wife who sat at the
entrance of the tent deserves no advancement in their spin on earth for taking
advantage of me, knowing full well its value.
The fella from West Wales
and his friend Michele. A nice couple, not afraid to talk with me.
A real pretty gal and her
two friends in their early twenties left this morning. Where do you think
they’re going? Hampi?
Aye. I saw only one eye
through the tinted sunglasses when I looked at them from the across the way,
but being one who was taught not to stare it was hard to stay away then I
remembered I am older than their fathers.
“never trust someone who wears sunglasses indoors”
I hand washed the
cheesecloth shirt and on a hanger hung it in front of a opened window. Yesh, it
looks like a shirt worth a 100rs.
stupid
stoned
cheated
boned
Write it off, what’s the
difference. A sober man would have started at least 300. I didn’t even
negotiate, dummy.
SAB KUCH MILEGA
conflict resolution
peace
dove tattoo at the base of
the thumb
The Nehwari kumaris in
Kathmandu, virgins for life, people afraid to marry them because of bad luck.
My goodness, I’ll have no bad luck with a 33 year old virgin, omigod…I think
I’m in the wrong country…
be slow to act
quick to think
“Guess who the two fellas
are from”. They sense they’re being talked about so they leave. How did they
know? A quick look by the Nepali kid who served me noodles and seven up was
enough.
“You see, when you got a bulls
eye on your back like the Israelis feel they do and they may be right, well
then, you’re gonna be discreet and you’re gonna be someone else from somewhere
different and shades and shades of life cover up the truth except for one
thing…I know who you are.
The mass of uneducated
Indians will believe in the deity of a donut if it brings them good luck.
The Deity of a Donut.
One Donut at a Time.
famous johns:
john mcenroe
john adams
john wilkes booth
john lennon
john, the one whom jesus
loved
jack oneil
king john the lion hearted
prince john
john the Baptist
jfk
if you can keep your
control in India exhibiting only righteous anger and hostility then surely
marriage should be a picnic.
Maybe, if…no, adultery is
of course grounds for righteous anger, and yes, divorce if necessary, but it’s
never a call for violence…an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth.
At the Goa bus station my watch
stopped and I didn’t know where the bus to Hampi was and I didn’t know if I was
late. The dilemmas were temporarily solved in the homeopathic pharmacy with the
correct time and where I stocked up on homeopathic vicodine and a few valium
for a bone jarring 12-hour trip. A Hampi bound bus however, was pulling out ten
minutes before my own was to leave and I climbed on, an angry Indian man tried
to tear away the ticket from me and then ensued angry words between us. The bus
driver looked at my ticket but he couldn’t read English. A European backpacker
sat to the right of the door and through him I exasperated.
john: these guys don’t read
or write English. What time do you have?
messiah: 6:20pm
This wasn’t my bus and I
continued to dress down the angry Indian who tried to rip away my ticket and
once it was settled and understood now this wasn’t my bus, I apologized to the
driver and to the angry man.
backpacker: “shake his
hand”
I looked at this fella,
about 33, German, maybe Hebrew, his English accent could have been Italian, I
don’t know, but his advice was right on and I shook the ticket collector’s hand
and finally climbed off the bus.
“Drive safely and keep this
man safe. He could be the next messiah.”
In the sprawl of buses and
taxis and backpackers all waiting to move on I wandered about, mostly right in
front of the bus agency office and was reassured by the tiny man who was
responsible for getting the tourists on his bus, but I managed to miss the bus
and had it out with this agent who told me his men called out the bus to Hampi
was here and I never heard which led to me to publicly declare:
“Do not do business with
this company because they are completely untrustworthy.” Do not, I repeat, do
business here. They are not reliable”
I yelled this as I walked
away to nowhere.
A public calling out can
work and it did, the man personally escorted me to a taxi where for 200rs we
caught the bus. I ought to have protested having to pay for the taxi but by
this time I just wanted to put this behind. The value of the 200rs ($5)
rendered less to being on the bus and moving on.
Hampi
The cute girl sat down next
to me along the banks of the holy river Krishna and sold me three Hindu
stickers of the gods, briefly explaining the significance of each; two stick in
my journal now and one remained in my back pocket for good luck along with a
2009 Valvoline calender with Jesus, arms spread out to welcome on one side, one
of which I gave to her.
john: do you know who this
is?
girl: yes, he is Jesus, he
is a good man.
john: yes, he is but
sometimes you wonder if he’s just tired of it all and wants to wipe out the
earth with an ice age and start all over again…
Before we counted our
change and made sure our count was correct a crowd of at least 40 surrounded
us, not like last night, though I have to admit…
THE CRUSADE TO TRUTH
and what is truth?
Truth is a noun, and it’s
the opposite of lying and I did that for almost seven miserable years of
marriage and now ten years later I am still haunted. Must I keep bowing?
I saw the girl in the
sunglasses again on a rooftop restaurant this afternoon with her friends, her
back to me and she wore the same glasses. For reasons embedded in years of
feeling I didn’t want to be rejected I declined to intervene in party discourse
with three twenty three olds so I walked out of viewing site and found a boy
holding a cute pup:
john: what’s your dog’s
name?
boy: he has no name.
john: no name? hmmm.
A cute brown pup looking
healthy for now, no visible diseases and worms, the food must be alright here,
oh but he’s so cute and I just took a shower and I am all nice and clean and
ready to eat with my hands…
he rested in my right hand,
his heart thumped thumped.
john: what’s your favorite
food, fella?
dog: thump thump
john: hmmm…you like cats?
dog: thump thump…zzzzzz
I walked past the girls and
kept going right down the stairs and went right up the next ladder to another
rooftop restaurant and remarkably there was the dog I named Cat a few minutes
ago and we had a peaceful evening looking over the Hampi Bazaar, and the pup
enjoyed garlic butter naan in an excited I am happy to have a name now kind of
way.
The inverted temple. Why
would a shadow be upside down?
I didn’t like the loud
American in the temple, offering coconut shells instead of buying 1rs bananas.
cheap bastard.
“Can you help me? I’d like
to marry a Nehwari Kumari, aged 33.”
Orion and its star cirrus
are above me here on the Deccan plains and its another night of no sex. The dog
named Cat was fun to play with, it chewed on the shirt my brother’s ex gave to
me for Christmas twenty years ago.
A young woman, western,
traveling with a group of Indians approached Lakshimi, the temple elephant, not
sure of such a huge animal so close, not sure if a piece of coconut shell with
little meat for an animal that needs 29,000 bananas a day for crying out loud
was suitable or was a tease.
intervention
“Here, give him one of
these. They’re tastier” She dropped it the first time, then picked up the
banana and gave it to the beast and out they went!
RANDOM ACTS OF KINDESS
GOD
I AM LONELY
I AM NOT A VIRGIN
I LIKE SEX, BEER
AND ANY HOMEOPATHIC
MEDICINE THAT COMES FROM YOUR
GREEN GREEEN
MAYBE FROZEN EARTH!!
how sad to be humble
(4)
I stopped at the monkey
temple and a saw a flicker of light, someone was inside, a shadow moved. I
looked out at the mountains of crazy boulders on both sides of the river and
behind me the sadhu came out of the cave and beckoned me inside, taking my
shoes off first, my cheap sunglasses, my camera, and my hat. There she
performed a ritual to the monkey relief in the back of the cave. I assumed when
I entered the temple Lakshmi would be one of these toothless vagabonds who may
or may not be a sadhu but she turned out to be very attractive and my heart
hurt. She gave me the red powder and after a few moments of deep I am into
whatever is going on with my right pointed finger (I was rebuked when I started
to use my left) placed a spot on the monkey’s heart. Then she gave me the gold
powder and oh that was hard. I want to put in right on the monkey’s crotch but
that is just so immodest so I placed a mark right above that area, foolish man
we have here. I marveled at her hair, never cut, a long rope, littered with
straw. I held it in my hands, her teeth were pearly white against her hard
chocolate smooth skin of 40 something years. I got a hard on.
Outside I walked a few feet
away from the temple and she called me over, offered me a piece of crystal
sugar and we laughed and omigod I wanted to kiss the holy woman. She smiled so
big when I gave her my donation. A generous offering considering the Europeans
and Israelis have always been penny pinching yahoos. I told her to keep it
quiet as if she was going to tell anyone a white dude just gave her enough to
take off for the day and return to her home probably in another cave.
When I returned to my room
I took out my camera and looked at images from earlier in the morning and it
was then I noticed a line in one of the images and then the crack in the
polarizer and the dent from a smash that I cannot recall clearly. Did touching
the sadhu have anything to do with this?
“the banks are crooked,
they don’t change money but they will accept your credit card.”
Paul was my tuk tuk driver
and bodyguard for the next two days in Hampi. He took me to Hespot, the next
largest city to look for a camera dealer to replace at least a uv filter.
john: hey look,
Paul. what’s this?
paul: muslims,
I hate muslims
john: it’s a
mosque.
paul: yes, I
hate them so much.
john: Paul, you
know anyone who goes to that mosque?
paul: no.
john: so you
have never met anyone from that mosque.
silence. he’s
driving.
john: so, how
can you hate muslims if you have never even met the ones who go here? Don’t you
think you should as a courtesy at least, greet them before you break their
windows and set them on fire?
paul: ok, ok, I
only hate muslims who throws bombs.
john: ok ,
that’s a start.
police: did you see the
sadhu in the temple? The lieutenant in his UPS uniform saw the red bindi on my
forehead.
john: yes, she’s there.
Paul told me later it is
strictly forbidden to take photos of the sadhu but I didn’t ask if it was wrong
to touch a sadhu, besides it was none of his or the suspicious looking police’s
damn business what I did with a hot lady in the monkey temple, though I didn’t
do anything I think I would have been ready for anything.
(5)
After an early morning walk
I sat in front of room 12 at the Shanti Guest House and four Korean travelers
stir to my left. I approached the cutest one about my smashed UV + polarizer
showed her I couldn’t remove the lens, and she, like the rest of them feared
and stood up and walked back to her comrades across the enclosed courtyard to
her friends. Remembering Darwin and his animals that came before me, I followed
the girl and sat with the four of them:
john: konichiwa
kor: we are not Japanese.
we are Koreans..
john: how do you say good
morning?
kor: omaowa
john: I already forgot.
“I’m afraid to tell you that telling the difference between Koreans and the
Taiwanese, Hong Kong Chinese, Filipinos, Japanese, and mainland Chinese is an
egg toss up”
Would I ever mistake a
beautiful Indian woman with a wheatish complexion and Bollywood hair for a
Korean woman who wishes I walk away?
In Hospet I searched and
found a uv filter. Meanwhile I changed money at a travel agency where the man
called someone else who came ten minutes later with the rupees. Paul was
surprised but not really surprised I found a place to change. “All the banks
you cannot trust, everyone is trying to take something more.”
john: have I overpaid you?
paul: what is fair?
In the back seat of his tuk
tuk a hand painted note says 15rs per kilometer. Hospet was about 10km. Any
extra money given to him was baksheesh for services rendered while I did my
thing. And like a man who hasn’t drunk in a long time, Paul couldn’t wait to
buy a new watch so we could be in sync though we knew I was the only customer
he had had that relied on a watch in a place where most watches stopped when
the British left.
Respect the clock,
especially if you got buses to catch.
The last evening in Hampi I
lit a candle and placed it outside my room. I had taped a Hindi sticker and my
Jesus calendar to the window’s steel grating a few days earlier to keep away
ideas that were bad.
I always want what I cannot
get.
At the Elephant Stables I
sat under a tree and soon a family came and sat in the same shade. The woman
who was not married and was sort of on display for viewing for possible
arrangements with a respectable suitor walked in front of me. I had walked
behind the same woman a few minutes earlier outside the grounds and found her
to be quite attractive but desperately sad.
A distinguished looking man
in the group, perhaps the father, asked me how I had found India so far.
“Beautiful”. And I meant it, telling those who asked I was American was a
refreshing wind. A parade of schoolchildren filed past me and started waiving
“amerikee” hello baba, hello amirikee…how did they know, what did they see or
hear?
Being honest and humble has
its privileges but in India it still hadn’t gotten me closer to getting
shagged.
Sitting at the entrance of
one of the stables watching the holiday folk meander and the enormously
impressive architecture when I am suddenly surrounded by 20 maybe more, 12-13
year old school boys.
students: hello, may I ask
where you come from?
john: of course, America.
students: and may I ask
what your good name is?
How can you say no to good
manners? I loved watching the wheels of intrigue spin in their heads when we
discussed the blue eyed snake no one had seen yet believed was true.
BLUE
Colombia- missionaries,
Cortez, the Portuguese.
Indonesia-the Dutch
The Philippines-Magellan
India-The British
Turkey? The Persians and
the Prussians
The black bull came at me
and Paul stepped in front and simply pushed it away. “What the hell was that?”
The body guard brushed the incident but looked at me as if he knew something I
wasn’t going to understand.
DEWA GURUNG
The couple to my left left
and now they sit, still within earshot, on the majlis across from me. Before
they got up to sit apart from each other the man tried to interrupt Dewa while
he wrote his name in my journal. I am glad the happy and very laughable young
man didn’t stop writing. The cook at this rooftop restaurant has made some
extraordinary dishes including a fresh bowl of muesli with fresh bananas.
Yesterday he made hummus that was good but was a little dry. The next time I
ate there I suggested a little more olive oil and it came out perfect. “I
learned from some Israelis in Dharamsala.” and the soup, where did he learn how
to make this delicious minestrone. “I learned from an Italian man. He owns
another rooftop restaurant.
The black stone.
“HEY EXCUSE ME YOU’RE NOT
ALLOWED TO GO DOWN INTO THERE”
Ha, the fat obnoxiously
loud American from Colorado is trying to ruin my day. I proceeded down the odd
configuration and stopped almost to the bottom.
“HEY, DID YOU HEAR WHAT I
SAID? THE LADY HERE IN CHARGE HERE FROM THE DEPARTMENT OF ARCHEOLOGY SAID DON’T
GO DOWN.”
“Are you her spokesperson?”
I stopped listening, looked
at the lady in blue and in charge, and we nodded and I climbed up.
Dewa served the second hot
piece of bread and I licked up the remains of the hummus and I know the couple
who hadn’t eaten anything and were hungry saw this with…I don’t know what they
thought.
(6)
Up and early I went down to
the river and followed a trail of shit and squatting adults in semi obscurity.
This mornings breakfast was
the same as yesterdays except:
muesli with bananas in warm
milk, orange juice, fresh squeezed and a pot of masala chai
VIJAY AWADA coach 54/84
seat 59 upper berth
Sunset rock, Hampi
To my right two couples,
east Europeans: “Do you have reservations for this rock”? I danced for a second
and jumped off and walked around until settling next to them.
Behind to my left this
white dude and his mat are set up and he goes right into his yogi thing. Then a
very attractive dirty blond sets herself up about 20 feet in front of him, an
obvious and consciously driven ploy to distract him. My heart sinks and I crawl
into a ball on the rock and wonder how long will my loneliness continue.
For five minutes the dude
with the mat is chatting with a local fella and the attractive long haired lady
is into the yogi thing really good and I am sending out strong electromagnetic
waves of good will and love and please turn to your left and recognize the wave
that is interfering with your concentration which I have begun to doubt because
the white dude is telling the local fella he isn’t going to give any money to
him for something he didn’t do or receive. sigh. no good.
I do not wish to see other
couples interacting.
sree lakshmi vilas modern
café.
People are saying good
morning to me. Men that is. One dude stopped in front of me and said “o man”
and I moved around him. The women avoid me. The stunning Ukrainian lady didn’t
have a chance when I sat down next to her and said hello and waited to inquire
about the exact whereabouts of the train station. Within seconds her business
and cold blue light eyes were done and gone.
Paul’s teacher, the old man
with the long and black and white streaked beard sat behind the desk looked at
me with no expression when I put my hand under my shirt and began to thump
thump thump thump thump.
and I left sad again.
Never before have I gotten
on a train in India so efficiently without even a muster of sweat than the 7226
bound for Vijayawada.
And the really striking
young woman I saw on the platform was at my 2 o’clock in the next berth.
Sixteen at most, but we locked eyes and dammit. My heart sighed. Another two in
the berth said weepy goodbyes at the Hospet station.
Sitting next to the heart
melting young lady was a guardian who wore pink and looking in her forties,
cajoled and laughed with her hen of young chicks.
The single candle.
walking with the goats,
separating the preemies from the rest.
7226 left at …. or so but
who’s keeping track?
People will sit wherever
they can until they’re told to get out. How long can one sit in a seat not
their own, sitting in box seats is awesome until I am shoosed away by people
with money.
The very pretty girl and I
looked at each other and my eyes blurred and we tried to avoid connecting but
there was something there and now I am back in seat 59 and I can only think,
afraid to intervene, wisdom at work, mingles with the depressed. How could I
meet her? I’m too freaking old, think conventional wisdom you dumb shit. If
however, in my wildest of dreams she did accept my proposal, the agreement
would be very simple:
1. no questions asked
2. promises to love you
like a goddess in return for unconditional love in return
3. all that I do, all that
I say your beauty will never leave my lips.
A shemale, meanwhile, thin
and dark wearing a blue dress comes into the car demanding money from the
couple to my right who gave immediately and to this young man who sat next to
the father of one of the teenage girls and earlier tried to take a photo of me
with his mobile.
Another stop. The railway
official keeps busy taking bribes if no one is watching him. I was. Across from
me a thin dark man with a mummy daddy inc sales sheet for dec-jan:
1,43,000,000. that is in rupees, I presume…
I enjoyed Hampi and I
didn’t think I would because there was no booze around. It felt odd being honest
with everyone and it took on a persona of its own though with the foreigners
who think I am something I don’t know what they were thinking nor when children
came up to shake my hand.
The vegetable pulou was 27rs.
I gave a 50rs and he returned a 20 rupee note, a tax, the baksheesh assumed.
3:30 in the morning and we
sit outside Vijayawada. Maybe an hour of sleep. I had the top berth in a car
for six, my backpack chained to a chain, at the head of my bed.
January 20, Grand Residency
Hotel
The room doesn’t have hot
water but it does have a long sofa, a couple of chairs, two single beds, a
great view of buildings in this city but most importantly a television.
HOWEVER
Flipping through there is
no BBC that the man at the front desk said there’d be when I checked in after
five hours in a filthy decrepit-completely forgettable hotel without a tv where
I crashed at at four in the morning.
ESPN
MTV
National Geographic
CNBC ------10:15 pm
onwards….yes.
In the hotel restaurant I
gave the dishwasher my order after a few minutes ordering my thoughts…and I
didn’t know he was the dishwasher who isn’t paid to do anything else when the
short bellboy who I tipped 100rs came over.
good morning, good
afternoon. what time is it? ha. it is possible not having a watch can cause
misunderstanding.
ke garne.
So, I gave the bellboy my
order as well.
“navaratan korma”
I asked for biryani rice
though I should have just said plain white rice which is basmati because this
is India but knowing now I confused him I said the former and it was a mistake
because there came enough rice for four.
“7-up or sprite and a liter
of mineral water.”
Apparently my order was
unclear so here comes a guy with a pad of paper, along with a large man and now
I am wondering if they’re closed so I stand up and ask where else can I go to
eat.
large man: no, we open,
apologies it will take 15 minutes to prepare.
john (laugh) is that it?
fifteen minutes is how long it will be to run out and get the ingredients and
cook it up?
large man: excuse me sir,
you are from Germany?
I didn’t reveal my obama
hope t-shirt underneath my sweatshirt because the orchard restaurant is
freezing and I am hungry.
(7)
Taking a shower with Al
Gore’s Inconvenient Truth frightened and humbled me but it is already outdated.
If it is true that the earth has a birthday of sorts then life as we know it
will change big time. When will this happen?
December 21, 2012
the black hole
hadron collider
severe climactic changes
the mayan astronomers
the God particle
the earth’s axis tilts a
hair-length and bam, ice age.
On the train to Vijayawada
the fella who sold me the veggie pulau never gave me a spoon and didn’t return
the change.
Amos is 23 years old and is
from Berlin.
Amos: I enter university in
the Fall. For now I take a break.
john: how’s India treating
you?
amos: Good, except for now…
He didn’t tell me what was
wrong and it didn’t matter.
john: what will you study?
amos: philosophy
john: philosophy! You’re
preparing yourself to be a very perceptive and very poverty-stricken
philosopher unless you teach the stuff and there aren’t many jobs for people
who can discern or care to know anymore about Hume and inverted temples, and
beautiful sadhus in monkey caves who let you touch their thick ropey hair and
smile and you want a shag and the pain hurts in my throat and pants and within
thirty minutes and talking to police officers I discover my uv and polarizer
smashed.
faith-reason-faith-reason-faith-reason-faith-reason
“DO NOT REST YOUR FOOT ON
THE WALL”
On every floor of this
hotel are these signs and I don’t understand why people in a hotel would be
outside of their rooms with their foot on the walls. I don’t know.
I went out for a water,
found a bottle, asked two tuk tuk drivers to take me either to the Kanaka Durga
Temple, or 8km away to the cave temples. No English and my pronunciation of
these Hindi words must be horrendous so I went back to the hotel and requested
a cab at the front desk. I sat in the lobby with my water and they made a big fuss
about getting me a liter of water though they obviously saw I had one with me
but the man who checked me in said something to the bell-boy who took off and I
grew suspicious that he was going to go into my room and steal something so I
ran up four floors.
Then I accidently closed
the door without my key and wouldn’t you know it, there comes right around the
corner a pretty maid who lets me in and I stand looking out at a dirty city
when the phone rings so I run down stairs and a tall man with blanched skin
hand waits and we shake and his offer:
4 hours, 650rs.
I wanted 3 hours and 400
rupees and he refused to call his boss, refused to negotiate a price, and my
temper was going up so in exasperation and in disappointment left; “I do not
want to argue with you therefore I will not see your temples since there is no
room for negotiation because you are not fair”. I found a tuk tuk driver
who when I was trying to figure out which way the river was, he pointed
straight up! and I laughed, up? The river is up? And I pointed up and a
passerby laughed and he stopped and with him I negotiated a price and a
location for 200rs and he was good for the money. He tried to follow afterwards
though I put the money in his shirt pocket and patted it gently but I was too
fast for him.
Mu-Barak America
I counted eight stations
covering the big event and I’m still afraid of a skin head, an extremist, a
klan.
please protect him
11:30 am EST9:55 pm Vijayawada
The local media shows Barak
dressed a monk in brown cloth, complete with halo and book, birds twittered
happily around him like a Disney character.
BABU BARAK
wolf: the entire world is
watching this!!
john: no, wolf, I can think
of a few hundred million Indians who won’t hear this. Walking around wearing
the obama shirt and the school girls at the temple didn’t know the face and
neither did Renuk, the cute 12 year old who was with not her husband (a laugh
of shock) brother, sister, but uncle. And I know a few in a very dark bar
attached to this hotel that won’t watch if it isn’t Bollywood music videos of
gorgeous women they’ll never meet and never will I tonight.
The Lincoln bible
1861…never been used since…ok…Lincoln.
Two million at the mall and
one man with a bowl and two candles.
PLEASE NO ONE SHOOT HIM
Diane Feinstein…yawn…”a
peaceful transition of power.”
Rick Warren…let us pray…
The Old Testament-“hear o
Israel…The Lord our God is one God.”
Lead us in humility
compassion wisdom integrity freedom justice
All comes from God except a
girlfriend…my clock tics and I am not happy to share my life with no one.
Are you finished yet, Rick?
Yeshua
Easu
Jesus-our father who art
Aretha sing my country…We
love you honey, it’s beautiful, ok, wrap it up…finish softly…nice job Detroit.
Robert Bennet introduces
John Paul Stevens who offers the oath to Joe Lunch Bucket Biden.
Itzak Perlman, Yo Yo Ma, a
composition by John Williams. A winner and then a ‘Lord of the Dance rendition’
o jesus
John G. Roberts Chief
Justice
please stand…
They messed up. They were
nervous and we still cried and laughed and danced and smoked a little more and
we understood if you’re gonna make any mistakes best get them out of the way
before you’re president.
Humble
Thank Bush
44
still waters of peace
raging clouds, be true to
the doctrine
crisis, war, economy—greed
irresponsibility, not making the right choices
fix the schools
new energy
we’re threatening the
planet
CONFIDENCE, lower your
sights? They will be met, not solved, but met? I hope solved.
“the time has come to put
away childish things”
…the surest root to the
common good. America is a friend with each country (incl the evil ones)
Powers cannot produce peace
in Afghanistan? Get the uranium.
Muslims
-sew conflict
-judge what you build not
what you destroy and don’t look at your societies and blame the west.
-change
-Iraq-soldiers whisper the
guards of liberty. There’s a willingness to fight even though they know they’re
fighting the wrong fight? I don’t understand.
Honesty, hard work,
loyalty, patriot, old virtues but true. nothing satisfies the spirit of
citizenship more.
and there it is. a black president
Poet Nickolas Alexander
remembers the people who built America and she speaks of love. Love. A hooker
told me I have never loved a woman the way I have wanted to my whole life.
Goddamn.
I want my own fig tree to
sit under, Mr. Lowrey, but not alone, a beautiful Shiva with large breasts, oh
and I missed the reverend’s last Amen.
BBC
It was joy, a wave of
electric magnetic magma so powerful you get goose bumps on top of goose bumps.
I guess even a single guy
with a hard-on for the brunette in front of him will still never get closer to
that garden but can still feel elated at the peaceful and historic transition.
“The bitter swill of
segregation”
And let’s not forget he’s a
lefty.
Robert Byrd and Jimmy
Carter converse:
Robert: “How bout that? A
negro in the white house. Never thought I’d live to see it”
Jimmy: Yes, true but I can
live with someone who has some white Irish Catholic blood though I’m sure no
one voted for him because of this”.
CNN
“Jefferson was aware of
slavery and the evils it brought…” BUT that is not what his major
concern was at the time. He wrote the Declaration of Independence to establish
sovereignty, freedom and independence.
An 18-minute speech, same
as JFK.
And there goes Bush. Nixon
waved a defiant-proud goodbye. I am happy to see the helicopter get smaller and
smaller.
(8)
The train for
Kolkata/Calcutta leaves around five in the afternoon. I managed to reserve a
sleeper in second class for 1141rs. The woman who sold me the ticket said, I
think, that this was the best sleeper available. “Why is it still second class
then?” ah…no answer.
“America is a friend to
each nation…who seeks a future of peace.”
“a victory for all
colored-sports people” NDTV
“Without a vision the
people will perish”
The poor in Michigan are
excited in America. Wow, Barak, “we’s all holdin our hands”
Inside the quiet and empty
Quality Inn restaurant the big TV has Barak.
waiter: from which country,
sir?
john: America (he smiles).
Did you watch this last night?
He shook his head in that
unmistakable no which means yes in this yingy yangy place.
And I am amazed I made it
to this restaurant for 50rs, that includes the tip because the driver turned
right instead of left onto a five lane highway and turned right around and
drove straight into belching trucks, swerving motorcycles, children with bows
and arrows and oh my goodness, my tea has arrived.
“Barak moved to the US when
he was three” ???? Wait a second, Hawaii became a state in 1959 and he was born
in 1961, being 47.
“Indian children are bleary
eyed staying up late to watch this unprecedented event”
wait a second, this came on
at 10pm Vijayawada time.
“In Mumbai the bleary eyed
children are so excited they may, however fail their maths examinations though
according to those we interviewed it doesn’t matter because “we love colored
people”.
I ate an uninspiring
breakfast buffet in a dark Tulip restaurant. Four men in white shirts ate
quietly to my 2 o’clock. A man and a young woman sat in front of me. The girl
was about 15 and kept looking at me nervously and wanted to talk to her father
but the room was too quiet and small to say anything without all listening in.
“We must pick ourselves up
and dust ourselves off”
The man who checked me in
yesterday morning in a crazy yet quite orderly transfer from the dump I checked
in when the train arrived said I could not check out at 3:30.
the man: “Sorry, sir, 11:30
is checkout.”
john: my train leaves at
5pm, can I pay a prorated cost? half a day?
the man: “no, sorry, 11:30
is checkout.”
I have a hard time
believing a line of people waiting to check in here but for twenty bucks,
twenty bucks is twenty bucks.
The ceiling above me is
quite beautiful and I should take a picture; hand painted flowers all the way
round the squared room, splaying onto the ceiling, causing bends in the long
green blades of fern and orange and purple hibiscus.
With love from Tokyo, from
Japanese in Banglore. Barak mania.
There is still, something
about Diane Feinstein I am not sure of. Everyone’s
speech/invocation/benediction/introduction/prayer/ will be somehow remembered,
they worked hard to outdo themselves and surely with the realization that
whatever they said would be shadowed by the chosen one’s 18 minute speech for
the ages.
The Indian staff watch the
colored man taking the oath. Thank God they don’t understand English very well
because every time I see and hear the gaffe I sigh. It was an innocent mistake,
the adrenaline outdid the calm.
I think the dark-skinned
peoples in this entire country who saw and have seen this man’s face have to be
hopeful:
SAB KUCH MELAGA.
Well, not for everyone,
really. These fellas are lucky to work in a restaurant where I have been the
only customer for the past hour.
A capsule of yesterday:
a walk across the bridge
that controls the vast delta and this river, photos with the Muslim and Hindu
kids who shook hands to show friendship.
The ghat at the river. I
took no photos but watched a pretty girl comb her long long black hair, her
brother trying to help to no avail. I saw them again when I ascended the steps
to the temple high above the city. She was no more than 15. As the sun lowered
I headed for the beach to take sunset photos with the clothes hanging on lines
and my o my I have to remember this beach as Shitty Beach, not because of
garbage but this is the public toilet for the poor. At least 500 meters of land
mine walking and amazingly no smell, a vegetarian diet perhaps reduces stinky
emissions.
Then I found a cab who took
me away from the tiny swarming beggars, far too close and clingy. I walked away
fast and one heart breaking little girl, so dirty with ratty hair, eyes that
stopped, a fear which could follow and haunt, I pulled out a 5rs and she smiled
then dashed back to the mix. Seeing generosity a hungrier and more desperate
boy pursued me harder and I walked faster and he cried and god dammit he got
2rs.
The lobby is nice and cool
and I want to take off my boots and like the good Indians of Vijayawada I want
to go outside and pee on a wall.
The Australian Open. Andy
cocky Murray eats sushi and peanut butter in addition to his steaks and juices
and protein shakes. Nadal looks invincible.
On the wildlife channel it
seems every show there is some gregarious Aussie wrestling with something you see
in a zoo.
Australia vs The Nature of
the Beast
Why use an I-pod in your
travels if your brain remembers everything? It also seems unfortunate to see
travelers blocking out half the experience with their own music. Why, the sound
of a city, even the dirtiest of cities, is more meaningful than the best of any
Kings of Leon tunes.
You’ve heard?
1) If I were a rich man…
2) the phantom of the
opera, music of the night
3) how great thou art
There hasn’t been much
Edmund Fitzgerald humming. No raging rivers, thunderstorms, leaky toilets to
remind me? Hardly.
You need a lot of faith to
bathe in the holy waters of the Krishna River.
A ticket for Bangkok
purchased for the 27th from Calcutta, arriving in the early hours when even the
handicapped sleep.
Two things that frighten:
1) Large mobs of young
Indian men, all the same height, same skinny frames with dark chocolate skin,
same clothes and sandals, smashed into a gate where a film is being shown. I
stood across the street behind the other observers and wanted to take a photo
but what if they turned on me I’d be caught and maimed, robbed by malnourished
men. One man stuck in the meld waived towards me and I left. Masses, hard to
distinguish between animals, hard to imagine only reason separates these from
the cattle who press and moan and bleat and belch.
And why? to see a very sexy
warrior kill evil? I…ok, whatever. It still frightens. Billboards along Panda
St. of this woman bearing a huge bloody hole in her head, a horrified shock
grips her face as if someone ate the last slice of boston cream pie without
permission, or there she is with a huge sabre sword, I think in this exception
a gorgeous woman even angry, can still be gorgeous. This woman is not gorgeous
though if she smiled she’d be gorgeous.
a mocking horror for poor.
2) I still can’t get used
to the bald women and children along the river. I took photos of the black hair
on Shitty Beach, excusing myself as I walked past the squatters in the
disappearing light.
For 1140rs I have a sleeper
and a seat and around me people who look like life is ok including a pair of
pretty eyes and nose in a berth with a laptop tapping away while in the next
car a young asian Indian lady has nothing on her mind except for shagging the
guy with the Motown shirt that is just beginning to smell.
“Hey I know Motown, that’s
seven hundred miles away…” It’s closer to 4,600 miles but who’s counting when
it doesn’t matter.
“Hello Babu” a long line of
school children walk by at the elephant stables.
I have been so honest
during this trip. What do you attribute to being an honest man?
1. homeopathic vicodine
2. valium
3. herbs and spices and a
commitment to transparency provided no one asks questions I am unwilling to
answer and could land me in the clink.
I came to look for a
girlfriend and ha, I haven’t come close to even meeting anyone and it feels
this is how it is supposed to happen.
Six chatty businessmen
occupy the berths across from me, the elderly trio left. One schmuck keeps
staring at me and even pulled back my curtain to look at the white dude. ACHA!!
I got up and pulled their curtain wide and yelled HELLO, and returned to my
berth hoping their petty jocularity would quiet down and they’d leave me alone.
But the gay clown steals glances at me and I caught one in the stare and said,
without saying anything that if you touch me I’ll break your fingers with a
crowbar until all 23 bones in your hand are 8,305. Now they are listening to a
mobile recording of a man snoring over and over and they chuckle, ha ha, isn’t
this amusing, aren’t we having fun? Such simple and annoying entertainment for
the clerks.
The ticket agent wears
smart trousers, pleated white, ironed, with a black sport coat and a pink
shirt. He’s talking to them and money is exchanged.
(9)
The train stops, it is
early morning and people get off to wash at basins on the platform, shrouded in
an earthy mist. We are in the state of Orissa. A man exchanges with me a one
rupee note for a dirham coin. He is a public relations officer for a steel
company. “You’ve heard of Millenium Hotels?” We have nine hours to go before
reaching Calcutta. The train, I am told, is only 20 minutes late.
Dr. Snghoshal
Jadavdor Kol-75
64/6 Garfa Main Road Kol -75
The retired professor of
agricultural engineering says we are three hours out of Calcutta and
recommended two places to visit while in the city though I told him I had a day
in the city before I was to catch a flight up to Darjeeling but on the way back
had two days to visit, specifically, Mother Teresa’s mission home and the
Victoria Memorial. “You must also visit Santiniketan and Bisara Bharah
University. The latter was where I taught for thirty years.”
regarding morality
“…action prompted by the
motive of…comfort and personal happiness in another world is non-moral.”
Ghandi.
So, if someone is going on
the mission field to help feed the poor, he must make sure his intentions are
pure. Is he going because his community nurtures such endeavors? Is he going
because it is a requirement, an expected duty being one who believes such
efforts are divine? Is he going because God told him to go? There is nothing
wrong with feeding the poor and clothing the cold but if you expect a reward in
heaven or on earth any actions are non-moral but not immoral and, are paid for
when in full at that moment he seeks recognition.
I don’t mind pulling out
long nose hairs in front of the doctor and his wife of 143 years. At 71,
retired since 1998 he leafs through my guidebook. “I have been fortunate to see
my three daughters marry successful men. One is a professor at Kolkata
University, one is a teacher of the arts, and one son is in the upper echolons
of business. “Here, take one of these.” A tiny Halloween size Bounty candy bar.
“My son brought these back from London.” I didn’t tell him I bought one on
platform 5 while I waited for the 8646.
A vegetarian meal went for
32 rupees. Lemon rice and something else sold in containers priced at 15
rupees. One cannot argue with priced meals though a restaurant meal will
include a price on every service rendered to enslave the impoverished and
uneducated staff and to fatten the fat.
Last nights chatty
businessmen are working in their berths. The brown clothed voyeur who didn’t
wear a belt taps away at a calculator making mindless notes and yawn…an itchy
nose and we’re two hours outside the city of souls. Yesterday’s news says the
pollution index was at its highest, reaching the danger red zone. Danger danger
Will Robinson.
The state of Karnataka was
a state of bananas and sugar cane. Orissa is flat, no rice fields, just dry and
brown. It is difficult to discern what can be grown here, tilling appears to be
a foreign idea. I’d like to ask the doctor but he is nodding.
“The problems of India and
Palestine go back to the British mapmakers.” What about partition? “Should have
never happened”. In 61 years of independence there have been 106 changes in
their constitution. We call them amendments and they don’t conflict with the
original words of Thomas Jefferson.
The windows are tinted
yellow in 2AC and the baked scenery looks like Mars. The businessmen are all
talking at the same time. Excellent, no one is listening.
Kolkata
“Does the TV work?” The
receptionist at the Astoria Hotel instructs the all-purpose boy who led me to
my room of 900rs earlier to carry a 14in up four flights of stairs. oops. He
earned a tip for his efforts and before I even settled in church bells and the
call to prayer blend at six in the evening for a time less people.
I bought a one way ticket
to Bagdorga for 3550rs, or $75. At 4:30 in the morning I am vomiting. A liter
of strong Kingfisher beer, a liter of light Kingfisher beer and 500rs to the
singer at the Princess Hotel on the ninth floor who didn’t care to see who the
foreign patron was. Booze is not my friend, happily enough, I find comfort in
knowing I will never be an alcoholic.
Hadi Ram Hadi Ram Hadi
Khrishna Hadi Ram..
On platform 5 in Vijayawada
I stopped in front of a brightly flashing weight scale and put my backpack
down. I assumed I’d lost weight having gone vegetarian but the machine asks for
one rupee and I only have a two rupee coin and the Japanese coin with the hole
in the middle that I carried around and offered to anyone who wanted something
from me wasn’t going into the machine when then this very sweet girl approaches
me and tells me the machine is ‘no working, broken’. For reasons I don’t
understand this act of kindness touched me, an act Gandhi would classify as a
moral act and not a non-moral act because the girl didn’t work at the railway
station. She was with her family. A spontaneous act of good is and always ought
to be moral of the highest order.
non-moral acts, acts of obligation, of duty.
Indian women know how to use their hips so well.
I started out on this trip
hoping to at least meet a woman and I haven’t come close. Not even. What’s
wrong? I swear the conspiracy baffles. Ten years and counting is absurd. I
haven’t minded living alone, journaling and photography give me enough so I am
not bored but loneliness feels heavier each day and each day closer to December
21, 2012 it seems tragic to die alone, if that is, I die.
Connections. How did my
father meet my mother? Connections. I have none.
The Edmund Fitzgerald
begins to hum. Top of Darjeeling, Chowrasta. Tiger Hill, the Tibetan Refugee
Camp. How can I help? Meet a nice girl, take her and her family out of poverty.
Why not? Siliguri and the Tenzing Norgay Central Bus Station is 12km away from
the airport. Seventy rupees, two and a half hours in a jeep, 80km away to
Darjeeling.
Spice Jet is clean and on
time and wait a second, this is so un-Indian like. The yellow Ambassador Cabs
in Calcutta truly brighten the blight up somewhat.
One cannot help notice the
attractive ladies, particularly one I stood next to and behind in the line to
get on Flight 321. Of course she was with her husband who held their tickets
and neither of them spoke. She looked at me when looking to her left, the
powerful peripherals of a woman cannot be exaggerated and she knew I found her
attractive and there was nothing we could do about it. Sitting in an internet café
a very pretty girl to my right swapped stolen glances in each other’s direction
but nothing came of it.
In the same café on Sudder
Street I am asked for my passport and then the clerk takes my freaking photo.
“you gotta be kidding me.” It is for security, sir.” Taking a photo and asking
for my passport so I can email is anything but secure. It’s borderline and
unnecessary infringement.
john: “ Calcutta is
dangerous? I don’t think the city is dangerous, you think it is dangerous?”A
swiveling nod and whatever from the pokerface and underpaid underworked kid.
john: You think it is more
dangerous than Gaza?”
kid: Ga…wha?
john: Gaaazzzzaaa, a slow
enunciation.
kid: Gaza, oh Gaza. Gaza is
finished.
Darjeeling
I can see my breath in the
big old room. I can’t wait till morning so I can see what I hope will be the
Himalayan Range in front of me. I am told the hotel commands breathtaking views
also of the hill station.
so, honey.
From the airport it was
250rs and thirty minutes to Sugulia and 900rs to Chowrasta, the women are so
far beyond me.
Each seat in the jeep cost
90rs. “You’re telling me you can seat ten in here?” yes, but they must be small
people and with no luggage so I paid for all the seats because I didn’t want to
sit around for hours waiting for it to fill up and besides, for $18 the young
Nepalese Buddhist driver and his Nehwari wife with a reasonable command of
English were pleasant company. They also deserved a 200rs tip for handling
roads that makes you believe in mortality and delivered me to the top in
exactly two and a half hours.
I am wrapped in a wonderful
wool shawl that I am told was made in Tibet by Tibetans here but that didn’t
matter because the big brown eyed girl who says her name is Honey sold it to me
and I lamely bargained with a girl who could very well empty my savings if
she’d marry me. Ha. I am guessing she’s 18 maybe 19. Soft, with red and green
patterns with black tassels the shawl is large enough to wrap around me Arab
style.
honey: My friend says you
look like a woman when you wear it like this.
john: So what? I am warm
and your friend isn’t. Ke garne?
honey: You are so smart.
john: You say this to every
man who buys a shawl from you?
honey: Business is slow.
You are my first customer today. Please try a hat.
She took me by the arm and
dragged me into a shop.
john: But honey, I don’t
want a hat.
She gave me a tuke, nice
but too small and it itched. wool.
john: It’s too small and I
am getting a headache.
I took it off and put it on
her and tied the laces under her chin.
john: You are so pretty,
why in God’s name are you not married?
She beamed and laughed and
my heart melted like butter in the desert. She took the hat off and gave me a
larger one but was still too small.
john: Honey, I don’t want a
hat. I have this shawl to keep my head warm.
She wanted me to see myself
in the mirror with this thing on me and I liked it even less. I asked the
gentleman in the shop if he knew how much this young lady sold this shawl for
and he hadn’t a clue.
john: 2000rs. She is very
smart.
or I am very dumb and
naïve, though I paid only 1200rs for it, inflating the price and telling others
made her feel…well she thought it flattered.
honey: I find a bigger hat
for you.
john: I’ll find something
bigger for you. What do you want? What do you need?
and we parted ways,
promising to see each other the following day, Lord you play, I pray you play.



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