The Last Shaman

9.9.12

A gray morning turns bright and dry, another night with no rain.  Are we out of the rain yet?  Laxman says it is still early, more will come.  Out of eggs, two pieces of toast and a small pot of black tea and with Suraksha following right behind, we finish the Ecuadorian chocolate. 

The plan today is walk, walk down the mountain via the paved road, and then taxi to the Tibetan camp.  Should I see Nyima?  Maybe he will not be there, that is possible.  Tenzin is away at school I think, her sister Dolker might be there to translate.  I would like above all things, to have my photo taken with him.  To show this dude exists. 

One thing I hesitate to note, but its somewhat odd to understand.  I am told many on the mountain are jealous of Laxman and Maya over their renovated dining room.  They see the appearance of the tourist American and the ongoing work and assum e this is no coincidence.  I don’t know if I want people to think I financed this project.  I did give them something when I arrived but I don’t think this brought the workers here though again I am unsure what to think about this.

There’s a lot of unknown when you don’t speak the native language.  Deals and illusions prevail and you can only trust you’re doing the right thing and you’re not being taken advantage of in the end, right?

At the end of the day.

 

 

When I entered the sitting room Nyima was fast asleep.  Dokler offered me a glass of water and we chatted.  In the past year two of the three active Shamans on the settlement have passed away.  Nyima frets he will not be able to pass on his gift before he dies, which Dokler said physically he was fine.  Depressed to see everyone you know pass away has left the last shaman bummed out.  And Dokler wasn’t sure but I think he’s not himself because in addition to this Tenzen, his oldest daughter, married a German dude and now she lives in Essen and tells family everyone is in such a rush, no one talks.  There is one other Tibetan speaker in the city and she is 90 minutes away.

I  suggested to the second daughter though in hindsight I am unsure of now, but if he remembers anything I told him when I returned the second time and told him the Messiah had returned and we’d see an end of world scenario then there’d be no need to find a replacement because it wouldn’t be necessary.  His Holiness the Dalai Lama says samsar, reincarnation may end and there’ll be no need to replace him.

Three years ago I asked Tibetans there definition of heaven.  Many said returning to their country would be like heaven.  Would you believe me if I told you that heaven you refer to is almost here?

When Nyima woke up he was somewhat lost in thought and stepped out and took a walk. The shaman returned and we exchanged pleasantries and said I’d be back next month. Dokler offered me a lift to Lakeside and we had momos with her mother and other Tibetan merchants.

And I did not get a photo of Nyima. 

A good walk up the mountain, muscles felt good, Balorum’s medicine made it infinitely easier and I don’t know how it works, but it works.