8.7.14
9.30am A bright foggy morning,
men throw stones next door, a woman walks below through the green, headed to
the forest north around the mountain.
The Saudi boys are accompanying Suraksha and Monab to school today. Ten dollars one of them flat footed desert
nomads slips and breaks a femur. Ok,
five dollars they get lost on the way back and call a helicopter to take them
to the top.
Prakash, the young man who took his life last year, had
a brother working in London. His brother
knows of no news regarding the death of his younger brother. Everyone has a right to know what happens to
their immediate family. It was a tragedy
and I do remember the last time I saw Prakash, the look in his eyes of all hope
lost. It was scary then but I’d never
seen that look before and I didn’t know getting tied down to a bed by his
father would be the final blow to this man’s dignity.
Beem cuts what buffalo grass there is below. I cannot justify spending ten days in
Vienna. Listening to Mozart all day, still
dressed like a bum, eating well, everything is clean and orderly and perhaps a
little too efficient. There’s still Sri
Lanka if you like it moderately clean and orderly and efficient. I have been told the roads are much better now
than when I was there ten years ago.
Fog rolls out of Pame and winds blow it up the mountain
and again a white out at ten in the morning while cheering and whooping from
the para gliders jumping off the cliff is muted.
The Saudi boys lead the Bengali six for leaving the biggest mess in their rooms and terrace. For the former it’s simply a case of youthful sloth combined with growing up with no responsibilities and always having a maid to clean up after you.
I have had no internet connection this morning. That is a good thing sometimes. Get outside and breathe deep the gathering
bloom. The dark gathering bloom.
2.42pm
The Saudi boys are back, completely conked out from
walking down and back to Suraksha’s school.
On the way one of the shabobs called the guesthouse to say he lost his
new iphone and when they climbed back up they found it right where it fell out
of his pocket. You always have a better
chance finding something on a mountain when you move slowly.
Ram stands at my door asking me a question I should
know. Repeating it isn’t helping. Can I remember it later? It is a quiet afternoon, one hammer and rock
clang with the birds. Trash is absently
knocked over next door. Is it haram to
call a Saudi an unclean animal? They’ve opened their door. I would like to listen to some music, wait, I
can hear Tibetan horns blowing from the monastery at the end of the mountain
road.
That’s good because my cd player doesn’t work. A good coincidence sort of.
On my walk this afternoon I had a cup of milk tea on
the roof of Ram’s Mountain View Guesthouse and chatted with Robert from Germany
who’s lived and worked in Java for twenty years. I have met him before and it wasn’t until I
was leaving that he suddenly became familiar and it was only last year that we
met, albeit briefly. So. He said he spent four hours in a Javanese
airport suspected of bringing something illegal with him because there was
recreational residue on his fingers. Body
cavity search the whole thing. In
subsequent returns customs recognized him and he hasn’t been searched
since. ‘A good time to take some now?’
was suggested.
A goat bleats below.
Now there are two and they get louder.
Behind the new Sunrise guesthouse, which sits right below on the road
and across from the Banyon tree, there is a goat pen and two kids are separated
from mama goat who remains in the pen.
The goats are having a serious bleating chat.
Locals check into room two and the driver brings two
beers to the patrons. Ram is standing
next to me. He took off his blue sandals
and now he watches me type without a mistake.
Now he says “keena esto?” in a
question. Why something, ok, it’s time
for tea.
A wall of rain came from the Hamja Valley quickly and
that was that. Little, I speak
figuratively, rain cells sprinkled over the north part of the city and that
might be all we’re gonna see. Meanwhile
Pokhara proper basks in sunlight. And
it’s only five pm, perhaps a nice rainbow.
The Saudi boys left their room just as showers
accelerated and winds blew. I think this
is intentional. Stand in it, sing in it,
bellow in it. A long nap after so much
climbing, no sorry, shabob, it isn’t evening yet.
A patch of sun falls on Pokhara, blue skies revealed in
pocket holes, the smell and the breeze after a rain is worthy.
6.42pm
I watched the almost first sunset from the roof top and
the green valley hummed in a golden filtered dream and when that was that I
turned around and a huge mother ship cloud was coming from the east and it
moved fast and wondered if it was going to go right over then it downloaded
heavy fog. And it was certainly a nice
way to end the day’s light.
How strange that such a fast circular upside down wok of a cloud would leave a trail of thick silent and moving slowly fog. All is blue outside.
And then, such a dramatic evening it is, a hole is cut
out of the fog for the moon, looking confident for no reason. Crickets must like something in the organic
rich air, airborne krill perhaps blown in just for you.
10.09pm
The boys took a six hour nap and they’re firing up
their propane to eat something. Just
keep it down, ok? Everyone is sleeping
or quietly nestled in for the foggy night.
The smart phone succeeds in taking my time to learn
it. And after three days is it worth it,
to learn, to be smarter than a smart phone?
Will I be a better person, better informed about my world? The boys are walking back and forth trying to
learn how to eat independently. Walking
down tomorrow I’d like to be gone before they leave.
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